pork + ricotta = love

if pork and quenelles had a love child, i imagine that it would be these meatballs. not that i’ve ever tasted quenelles (a delicate sort of french dumpling that is made of a mild white meat or fish, and poached), but i’ve always thought that they would be a much more sophisticated version of chinese fish balls. these meatballs arose from pure opportunity, as i had exactly the amount of ricotta needed leftover from the homemade ricotta.

this recipe is especially excellent because each of the ingredients plays a clear role (note: this analysis may or may not be exactly correct, but it is generally correct). the binding ingredients are the eggs and the parmesan, while the ricotta and pork combine for flavor and texture. notably absent in this recipe is breadcrumbs, which are typical in most meatballs. however, the strained ricotta replaces the breadcrumbs (this is why you have to strain it – so that it doesn’t render your meatballs unable to stick together) and the delicacy of its flavor contrasts extremely well with the pork, which is truly the dominant flavor. have you noticed how meatballs invariably taste like meatballs? these meatballs still taste like meatballs, but they taste undeniably like pork meatballs – there’s nothing to muddle up the flavor. the ricotta gives the meatballs a very light texture that’s still meaty – ie, there’s something to bite into. they’re not heavy like other meatballs, and the ricotta renders the meatballs edible hot or cold (ie, right out of the refrigerator for breakfast).

so essentially these are meatballs for people who like pork, and don’t like heavy meatballs (where heavy relates more to their weight in your stomach rather than their fat content). the other really great thing about them is that by some combination of the circumstances of their ingredients and the fact that they are rolled in flour, they brown extremely well and tastily, without those little bits of meatball that stick to the pan and get ripped away, then burn. so these are meatballs for people who like flavorful, non-heavy, and easy to cook meatballs. despite the lengthy directions, these are pretty easy to make, and rather more rewarding than is normal for an out of the ordinary recipe.

pork and ricotta meatballs  (adapted from the new york times)

1 lb ricotta (storebought or homemade)
2-3T sour cream if you’re using homemade ricotta
1 1/2 lbs ground pork, room temperature (this makes it easier to mix into the ricotta)
1c parmesan
2 eggs
1t salt
freshly ground pepper
1/2c flour, plus more if needed
vegetable oil or corn oil (not olive oil, which has a low smoking temperature)
~3-4c mild, homemade tomato sauce (so as not to overpower the meatballs; do not use any sort of jarred or canned sauce – we made ours as we waited for the meatballs to chill)

1. if you’re using storebought ricotta, weight the ricotta overnight to drain it of most of its liquid. Layer cheesecloth in a colander and put the ricotta inside. tie the ends of the cheesecloth together and weight with a plate and something that’s moderately heavy (like a pound of butter); put the colander on a tray to catch the liquid and refrigerate. the resulting strained ricotta should be like tofu in appearance. if you’re using homemade ricotta, let the ricotta come to room temperature and mix the sour cream into it with a spoon or in a food processor, to get rid of the lumps.

2. mix ricotta, parmesan, and eggs in a large bowl until well mixed. add ground pork, salt and pepper and mix with your fingers (not a spoon, and yes, it is messy) until it’s mixed together well. don’t worry too much about overmixing. cover the bowl and chill for 1/2 hour.

3. line a baking sheet with foil and put the flour on a plate. shape pork mixture into balls (we did ours at about 1 1/2″ to 2″ diameter) and roll in the flour, tossing gently in your hands to get rid of excess flour. place on the baking sheet and repeat until mixture is all used up. cover the baking sheet with plastic wrap and chill for at least half an hour, and ideally a full hour.

4. when you’re ready to cook the meatballs, heat 1 1/2 to 2T oil in a large skillet over medium to medium-high heat (if your smoke detector is sensitive like ours is, use the lower heat). brown the meatballs and remove to a plate; cover loosely with a piece of foil to prevent heat loss. continue until you’re done with the meatballs, adding more oil as necessary. take care not to break the meatballs apart when you turn them.

5. return all of the meatballs to the pan and add tomato sauce; shake pan from side to side to coat. keep heat on medium and simmer the meatballs in the sauce for 20-30 minutes, until meatballs are completely cooked through. adjust the seasoning and serve with pasta (you can also make the meatballs smaller and make them as an appetizer).

[serves 4-6]